Al-Eizariya is lawless. Literally. “No police here! No Israeli, no Palestinian!” the driver said as we passed into Al-Eizariya on that first day. He removed his seatbelt and laughed. Police are absent from this city to the extent that young men volunteer to direct traffic on busy days – Eid, Thursday afternoons, and every day at rush hour. They wear neon yellow vests and stand at intersections, waving their hands back and forth like the inflatable balloons at car dealerships. The cars ignore their exasperated pleas and speed forward anyway, whizzing past each other without warning and without …